A Guide to Replacing Your Threadless Bike Stem

Handlebars feel off? Replacing a threadless bike stem is a straightforward job with the right tools. Here’s when to do it — and how, step by step.

5 Signs It’s Time to Replace Your Bike Stem

1. Wear and tear

Stress cracks, chipped paint or visible fatigue mean replace it — a compromised stem is a safety risk.

2. A change in riding style

Moving from casual rides to racing or aggressive trail? Your stem should match.

3. Discomfort

Persistent hand, arm or shoulder pain often points to the wrong length or angle.

4. Structural damage

Bent or cracked after a crash: replace it immediately, no exceptions.

5. Aesthetics

Sometimes you just want the cockpit to match. That counts too.

Threaded vs Threadless Stems

Threaded stems live on older bikes and adjust with a single bolt. Threadless is the modern standard — lighter, stiffer and easier to adjust. This guide covers threadless stems only.

Tools Needed

• Allen wrench set
• Torque wrench
• New stem

How to Remove the Old Stem

Step 1: Loosen the stem cap

Gently loosen the stem cap with an Allen wrench, remove it and set it aside.

Step 2: Loosen the clamp bolts

Loosen the bolts on both the handlebar clamp and the steerer clamp — just enough to free the stem, no need to remove them fully.

Step 3: Remove the old stem

Lift the stem off the steerer tube. If it’s stuck, wiggle it gently side to side while pulling up.

Step 4: Inspect and clean the steerer

Check the steerer tube for wear or damage, and wipe off old grease and grime before fitting the new stem.

How to Install the New Stem

Step 1: Fit the stem and check steerer height

Slide the new stem on. The top of the steerer should sit 2–3mm below the top of the stem — adjust with spacers (below or above the stem) to keep that gap.

Step 2: Preload the headset

Tighten the stem cap just enough to remove vertical play. Turn the wheel side to side — it should rotate freely with no grinding. Too tight? Back it off and try again.

Step 3: Identify your clamp type

Funn stems use two faceplate designs: even-gap (like the Funnduro and Stryge) needs equal gaps top and bottom; no-gap (like the Equalizer, Tron and Crossfire) closes fully at the top, marked “No-gap” on the faceplate. Check the manual if unsure.

Step 4: Tighten the handlebar clamp

Center the bar and set your preferred roll angle first. Even-gap: tighten bolts a little at a time, alternating sides, keeping the gaps equal. No-gap: tighten the top bolts to spec first (5Nm on Funn stems), then the lower bolts, alternating sides. Always follow the torque printed on the stem.

Step 5: Align and tighten the steerer clamp

With the steerer bolts snug but not tight, stand over the bike and square the bar to the front wheel. Once aligned, tighten the steerer clamp bolts alternately to spec.

Step 6: Double-check and test ride

Give the bars a firm shake and a tug — everything should feel rock solid. Take a short test ride to confirm.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

Improper headset preload

Too loose means play in the steering; too tight ruins the bearings. Aim for smooth rotation with zero play.

Wrong handlebar bore size

31.8mm and 35mm bars are not interchangeable — check both specs before buying. (Read more: MTB Handlebar Widths: Finding the Perfect Fit)

Wrong clamping method

Even-gap and no-gap faceplates tighten in different sequences — using the wrong one can damage the bar or stem.

Misaligned handlebars

Take your time squaring the bar — misalignment ruins handling and strains your wrists.

Over-tightening bolts

Follow the manufacturer’s torque specs. Stripped threads end rides early.

Funnduro Stem

The all-rounder of the Funn stem range — 35, 45 and 60mm lengths for trail and enduro.

VIEW FUNNDURO

Conclusion

A correctly fitted stem means safer, sharper handling — and it’s one of the easiest jobs you can do at home. Work through the steps, respect the torque specs, and if anything feels beyond you, your local shop has your back.