Upturn High Riser Handlebar

Anyone who wants the front end higher than a normal bar can put it. A typical trail bar rises 15 to 30mm; the Upturn starts at 40mm and goes to 55 or 75mm, which sits you noticeably more upright. That shifts weight off your hands and back, keeps your chest open on steep descents, and is the usual fix for a frame with a low stack or a fork that has been slammed. It is also a cleaner solution than stacking spacers under the stem, which pushes the bar away from you as well as up.

Your stem decides the clamp — 31.8mm and 35mm are not interchangeable, so measure what you already have. The 31.8mm Upturn is 785mm wide and weighs 350 to 360g; the 35mm is 800mm and weighs 372 to 390g. Both run 5.5° of upsweep and 8.5° of backsweep in every rise.

Worth checking before you commit. Moving from a typical 15–30mm bar to 40, 55 or 75mm of rise adds real distance for every cable and hose to cover, and the shortest point is not where you expect: turn the bars fully to each lock and watch for anything pulling tight at the head tube, then compress the fork and look again. If a hose goes taut you need longer housing, and on a brake that means a re-bleed — cheap to plan for, annoying to discover halfway through the job.

They are reference marks for positioning your shifter and brake levers. Setting both sides to the same mark saves the usual squinting from the front of the bike, and if you strip the bar down for a service you can put everything back exactly where it was. Handy too if you cut the bar down — mark the position before you start.

Yes — it is alloy, so it shortens with a pipe cutter or a hacksaw and a cutting guide. Take the same amount off each end, measure from the centre rather than from the ends, and check your grips and controls still have room. It cannot be undone, so ride it at full width a few times first. Our guide to handlebar widths covers how to work out what suits you.

Use the torque figure printed on your stem's faceplate — it is the stem that sets it, not the bar — and use a torque wrench rather than going by feel. Tighten the bolts a little at a time in a criss-cross pattern so the gap stays even top and bottom. Our handlebar replacement guide walks through the whole job.